1st Gradeより、2nd Gradeは約3割引、3rd Gradeは約4割引、4th Gradeは約6割引。
単位は「英ポンド/㎡」で、100デシあたりの価格。まとめ買い（Skins Purchased）するほど安くなる。
J. Hewit & Sons での等級付け方法の概説。
Grading
The grading of leather is based on holes, grain scratches and other defects such as staining or shape. In principle, we look at the undamaged part of a skin and try to assess how usable it is.
A first grade skin should yield a large rectangle, centered on the spine and extending most of the way to the edges. There may be one or more small damages near the edges but these should not detract from the overall efficiency of cutting.
A second grade skin should be suitable for smaller full bindings or for large half- and quarter-bindings. Where offered, such as in our calf range of products, lower grades are likely to have more defects spread across the skins and are most suitable for repair and rebacking work where relatively small pieces are required.
If you need to order leather for a specific project, the safest option is to let us have details of the number and dimensions of panels you require. We can then choose the most appropriate skin or skins and provide a quotation for your consideration.http://www.hewitonline.com/Leather_s/3.htm
革の等級付けは、穴、銀面の傷、および、染色や形状のようなその他の欠陥に基づいて決まります。原則としては、ダメージのない部分を見て、その部分がどのように使用可能であるか（使用可能面積）を評価するようにしています。
ファーストグレードの革は、背骨を中心とした大きな長方形の端のほうに小さなダメージが一つ以上あるかないか程度の、裁断効率の良い（歩留まりの良い）革です。
セカンドグレードの革は、小さめの総革装、あるいは、大きめの半革装や背革装に適しています。たとえば弊社のカーフの商品説明で提案しているように、グレードが低くなるほど革全面に広がった欠陥が多くなるので、低いグレードの革は比較的小さな革を使う修理や背革装の交換に最適です。
用途が決まっている場合は、弊社に使用面積等の詳細をお知らせ頂ければ、最適なお見積りを致します。
Grading
Second grade means only that the skin has slight blemishes, holes, etc. and does not refer to the quality of the tannage or dressing of the leather. … セカンドグレードとは革に傷や穴などが僅かあることのみを意味し、なめしや仕上げの質が2級品と言っているのではありません。…
社長による等級付け方法の細説。
Grading
I write about grading with a little trepidation. The reason for this is that everybody has their own ideas about how a skin should be graded. I thought however that it would be worth putting J. Hewit & Sons grading system down on paper considering that we are now dealing directly with more new customers since the advent of our on-line web catalogue. I am going to divide the leather types into "Commercial" (all resin pigmented leathers) and "Craft" (all leathers suitable for handwork).
等級付けの考え方は人それぞれだと思いますが、弊社の等級付け方法について書きます。大きく分けて、Commercial（顔料染めで大量生産の革装向き）とCraft（アニリン染めでハンドメイドの革装向き）の2つあります。
Commercial
I have included in the commercial leathers all smooth, glazed and embossed pigmented leathers. These leathers are generally only sold in 2 grades, 1st and 2nd. Generally the grade I skins are blemish-free, although it is possible that a small defect might be found at the edge of the skin. Grade 2 skins will have either a hole or some defect that has not covered with the embossing or haircell print, however in most cases there is still sufficient clean area for at least one full binding. As a rule we normally assume the glazed sheep skivers are more often going to be used for titling pieces, and this results in a higher proportion of grade 2 skins being found in this leather.
顔料染めの等級付けについて。等級は 1st と 2nd のみ。顔料で隠せるので、1st は欠陥なし、欠陥があったとしても端のほうに少しだけ。2nd には穴、型押し加工でも隠せなかった欠陥、毛穴痕があるけど、たいていの場合、少なくとも総革装一冊分の欠陥のない革を取ることができる。
Craft Leathers
I have included in the craft leathers all those leathers with a natural grain suitable for handwork - Bookcalf, Chieftain and Clansman Goats etc. The majority of our craft leathers are available three grades - 1st, 2nd and 3rd.
アニリン染めの等級は 1st, 2nd and 3rd の3つ。
I am first of all going to mention Bookcalf, (and associated pure aniline leathers). In the case of these leathers where there is no surface coating at all the number of perfect skins runs at only about 1-2%, although there is a sizeable proportion of skins with VERY minor damage. In the case of Calfskins this small percentage are separated out as "Super" grade, whilst the "near perfect" skins are sold as grade 1. Don't expect to be able to order 15 Super quality calf at one go, but if you require one or two perfect skins for some priceless book they are there if required.
ピュアアニリン染めの Bookcalf に関して。欠陥がないパーフェクトな革は、1st より上の Super としているが、そのような革はほんの 1～2% しかない。VERY minor なダメージのある、ほぼパーフェクトな革を 1st としている。
With the other craft leathers where there is a degree of surface coating, the 1st grade skins, as one would expect, are as a whole blemish free. There might be a small defect on the belly edge or up in the neck area of the skin, but any such damage should be outside the main cutting area in the centre of the skin. Whilst it would be wonderful to be able to offer all grade 1 skins, we do not live in a perfect world. The proportion of grade 1 skins varies depending on the leather type, but is normally in the range of 10-25%. The bulk of what is left is made up of grade 2 skins.
他のアニリン染めの革に関して。1st は欠陥があったとしても、ベリーやネックに小さな欠陥がある程度。1st の割合は 10～25%で、その残りのほとんどが 2nd になる。
All grade 2 leathers have some sort of blemish on the grain or flesh of the skin that will show up if incorporated into a binding. These blemishes can vary from a flay mark on the back of the skin, through scratches to holes in the skin. As a rule grade 2 skins will have sufficient clean areas to allow at least one full A4 binding to be cut blemish-free. On the smaller leathers such as the Clansman Niger this is not always possible, and in these cases a view is taken on whether the blemishes are "closed" - can be incorporated into a binding, or "open". There has, of course, got to be some sort of boundary between a grade 2 skin and that of a grade 3 skin, and this by its very nature has to be indistinct. The grading will depend on the number and severity of the blemishes taken in relationship to the size of the skin. A large skin with several major blemishes concentrated in one area leaving a good clean area on the skin will be classified as grade 2, whilst a smaller skin with a series of minor marks scattered over the whole surface will be downgraded to a 3rd grade skin.
2nd にはある程度の欠陥があるが、少なくともA4サイズの総革装一冊分の欠陥のない革を取ることができる。等級付けは、使える面積、欠陥の数や程度によって決まる。たとえば、深刻な欠陥が一箇所に集中してあったとしても、それが大きな革にあるのであれば使える面積が十分に残っているので 2nd に分類する。一方、あまり目立たない欠陥であっても、それが小さな革の全面に広がっていれば 3rd に分類する。
This system of grading has worked fairly successfully for many years with our customers in the UK (although I'll no doubt now be flooded with complaints!!). If you are at all unsure of the grade you require, or have an unusual book size, it is worth noting that we are very willing to size skins to customer's requirements. This generally benefits both J. Hewit & Sons and you as Binders since you will receive the most price-efficient skins available from stock, and we can hold onto the limited numbers of grade 1 skins for those customers where price is of lesser importance.
異論があるかもしれませんが、弊社はこんな感じで等級付けをして、お客様と長年うまくやってます。等級付けに関して不明なことがあったり、特大サイズの革が必要だったりする場合は、お客様にとって（金額的にも）最適な革を在庫の中から喜んで選びますので、問い合わせてください。お金をさほど気にしない方向けに、数量限定ですが、1st をご用意しております。
参考 ： J. Hewit & Sons が年2回発行する 'Skin Deep'
- The Manufacture of Leather - part 1
- The Manufacture of Leather - part 2
- The Manufacture of Leather - part 3
- The Manufacture of Leather - part 4
- The Manufacture of Leather - part 5
- The Manufacture of Leather - part 6
- The Manufacture of Leather - part 7
- The Manufacture of Leather - part 8
- The Manufacture of Leather - part 9
- The Manufacture of Leather - part 10
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