- Brooks English Shoes、Bench-Made English Shoes (hand-lasting & hand-welting)、Peal の並上特上的3種類。Bench-Made English Shoesは1970年代後期頃（？）にディスコンになった模様。
- 幅狭用のCurzon（911）、普通幅用のSurrey（M89）、幅広用のDevon（M75）が代表的な木型。
- Xで始まる品番は古い。MADE IN GREAT BRITAIN 刻印は玉数が少ないのでかなり古そう。
- 時期は不明だが、X310R→310Rのように品番が変わり、1980年代後期頃（？）に再度、902→6020のように品番が変わった模様。
- 1960年代中期のDevon（M75）のX310Rはチャーチ製(*1)、1980年代後期頃（？）のCurzon（911）の6001はチーニー製、とのこと。
- X764とX765のコードバンシューズは、1970年代後期頃（？）にオールデンが木型を引き継いで、A764とA765に変わった模様。
- Peal 製既成靴は1930年頃から始まり、1950年代初期にグリーン製に変わり、1989年にクロケット製に変わった、とのこと。
(*1) 1966年にチャーチがチーニーを買収した目的は、OEMを始めるためであり、また、チャーチネームの増産のためでもあった、とのこと。
Cheaney was a sister company to Church's. What was their relationship?
Church acquired Cheaney in the 1960s for its brand but also to enable the group to do private label work for other brands, which Church did not have capacity for. Also the Cheaney factory was additional manufacturing capacity for Church's shoes.What companies did Cheaney manufacture for?
Over the years very many—in fact if you look into our heel sock stamp drawer you will find practically every Bond Street brand past and present that Cheaney made for.Nick V. Interviews William Church, Joseph Cheaney and Sons Shoes |
For a long time its primary function was as an overflow production facility for the shoemakers next door, the eponymous Church’s label, after it was acquired by the company in the 1960s (and subsequently by Prada).
(1) Ads & Catalogs
(2) Brooks English Shoes
M25 ラスト
M44/R2 ラスト
M44/86 ラスト
M58/R2 ラスト
M75 ラスト (Devon)
M79 ラスト
M89 ラスト (Surrey)
M90 ラスト
M107 ラスト
M121 ラスト
M144R ラスト
？ ラスト
911 ラスト (Curzon)
175 ラスト
(3) Peal
商標権裁判
ゴム引き加工
(1) Ads & Catalogs
1963 Brooks Brothers Christmas Catalog
Peal $62
Brooks English $34
Brooks English (lightweight) $32
1969 Brooks Brothers Fall Catalog
Peal $73
Brooks English (lightweight) $36
Bench-Made English $52
Brooks English $39
The Pittsburgh Press - Sep 1, 1960
Brooks English $28
Bench-Made English (hand-lasting & hand-welting) $42
Peal $48Cordovan brogue $32
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette - Sep 8, 1961
幅狭用のCurzon
普通幅用のSurrey
幅広用のDevon
Brooks English $30
Bench-Made English $42
Cordovan blucher $34
Brooks English Brogues | Admiral Cod
Brooks English $32.5
Peal $65
The Pittsburgh Press - Dec 18, 1962
Brooks English $25～$34
Bench-Made English $40, $42
Peal $62, $65
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette - Sep 23, 1969
Brooks English $27～$40
Bench-Made English $52, $53
Peal $70, $73
The Pittsburgh Press - Mar 23, 1970
English shoes $27～$75
Cordovan blucher $42
The Pittsburgh Press - May 24, 1974
English shoes $40～$95
lightweight town wear shoes...bench-made shoes....and the superb products of Peal & Co.
Cordovan blucher & brogueの広告から"English shoes"というコピーが落ちた
A764 & A765 | Brooks Brothers Fall & Winter 1980 | HTJ Archives
(2) Brooks English Shoes
- M25 ラスト
868, 1980年代にセール価格75ドルで買った、とのこと
- M44/R2 ラスト
X925（ソール中敷ともMADE IN ENGLAND 刻印、伏せ縫い、アンラインド）、925（ソールはMADE IN GREAT BRITAIN 刻印、中敷はMADE IN ENGLAND 刻印）、箱
875/R, その2
- M44/86 ラスト
X921F（MADE IN GREAT BRITAIN 刻印 と MADE IN ENGLAND 刻印）、921、X922F（茶）
- M58/R2 ラスト
X765, MADE IN GREAT BRITAIN 刻印
Brooks English Shoes 1958 | Facebook
captoe blucher (shell and suede) and captoe bal (shell): Snap last (like Hampton)
PTB (shell): M-58 last (like Barrie)
Wingtip Bal - Shortwing (shell): M-75 last (like Plaza)
Monk Strap (shell): Aberdeen
X816R, MADE IN ENGLAND 刻印
X839, 中敷はMADE IN GREAT BRITAIN 刻印
- M75 ラスト (Devon)
X303, MADE IN ENGLAND 刻印
X310R, MADE IN ENGLAND 刻印, 34ドル, マディソン・アベニューのBB本店で60年代中頃のチャーチ製と確認した、とのこと
310R & 802T | Brooks Brothers Fall & Winter 1980 | HTJ Archives
X764, MADE IN GREAT BRITAIN 刻印
X804R（MADE IN ENGLAND 刻印）, 804R
857, 中敷はMADE IN ENGLAND 刻印
948, MADE IN ENGLAND 刻印
外羽根セミブローグ↑、内羽根セミブローグ↓
X957（MADE IN ENGLAND 刻印, 伏せ縫い）、957
- M79 ラスト
X807
- M89 ラスト (Surrey)
X952（黒, MADE IN ENGLAND 刻印, 伏せ縫い）, 952（黒）, X852（茶, MADE IN GREAT BRITAIN 刻印）, 852（茶）, 752（薄茶）
- M90 ラスト
922
- M107 ラスト
X988R（？）, MADE IN ENGLAND 刻印, 伏せ縫い
- M121 ラスト
822, ソールはMADE IN GREAT BRITAIN 刻印, 中敷はMADE IN ENGLAND 刻印
- M144R ラスト
X404F, ソールと中敷はMADE IN ENGLAND 刻印
- ？ ラスト
？, 中敷はMADE IN ENGLAND 刻印
863, 中敷はMADE IN ENGLAND 刻印, クレープソール
- 911 ラスト (Curzon)
902（黒）, 802T（茶）
Brooks English Shoes 1958 | Facebook
310R & 802T | Brooks Brothers Fall & Winter 1980 | HTJ Archives
6020, $225 （→1988年のカタログでは$235なので、1988年以前に902から6020に品番が変わったようだ）
$235 | Brooks Brothers, Fall 1988 | HTJ Archives
6001
Cheaney replied and confirmed that they manufactured the shoes:
Quote:確かにこの靴を作ったのは弊社だが、911ラストはもう無いので、残念ながらもう作れません、というチーニーからの回答。
Thank you for your enquiry. We did indeed manufacture your shoes but, unfortunately, we no longer have the 911 last so I regret that we would be unable to make any more. - 175 ラスト
6015
(3) Peal
1930s Vintage Peal for Brooks Brothers Wingtips - 9.5B - Museum Quality like NOS | eBay
- 商標権裁判
2005年、BBの直営店がロンドンにでき、Fox & Boot マークがFosterと衝突した。そこで、Fosterは2006年申請（2009年登録）し、BBを詐称通用（被告の商品を原告の商品と偽って通用させる不法行為）で訴えたという経緯。
BBは英国で文字商標（Peal & Co.）は登録していたけど、図形商標（Fox & Boot）は登録していなかった模様。
概要‘Fox and Boot’ Logo Passing Off Ruling | Collins Benson Goldhill
Published Thursday 21st March 2013, 05:04 PMThe distinctive 'fox and boot' logo that has adorned the footwear of the rich, powerful and famous for generations sparked an epic High Court struggle between rival shoe retailers. Victory in the passing off action was ultimately achieved by a Jermyn Street maker of bespoke shoes who established an exclusive right to use the device on leather goods within the UK market.
‘Fox and Boot’の英国での独占権はFosterにある、という判決が出た。The logo could be found on the shoes of Winston Churchill, Lord Mountbatten and Fred Astair and was linked in the minds of customers to world famous shoemaker, Peal & Co., before the company's sad demise, after almost 200 years trading, in the 1960s. The sign has since been used to distinguish the wares of Jermyn Street-based W.S. Foster & Son Limited.
この図案は、Pealの廃業後、Fosterが使いつづけてきた。Foster & Son went to court after it noticed a fox and boot appearing on the shoes of Brooks Brothers UK Limited, a subsidiary of the well-known US menswear group, which was incorporated in 2005 and has opened three shops in the UK as well as trading online with UK customers.
2005年、BB直営店が3店舗オープンし、この図案を使ってたので、Fosterが裁判を起こした。Upholding Foster & Son’s claim, Judge Iain Purvis QC said that there was no doubt that the fox and boot logo was associated by customers with Foster & Son and that the company had valuable goodwill in the sign. He ruled that it was highly likely that those who saw the sign on Brooks Brothers’ goods would believe that they were manufactured by Foster & Son or in some way connected to the company.
この図案の商品をBBで見た者が、Foster製あるいはFosterと何らかの関係がある商品と思うことは十分ありえる、と判決で述べた。Brooks Brothers argued that it had had a close business connection with Peal & Co before its demise and that, in 1964, it had acquired the dying company's goodwill. The fox and boot sign had a ‘common ancestry’ and Brooks Brothers argued that it was fully entitled to use it on its products in the UK market.
BBは1964年にPealの営業権を買った、この図案は「両社共通の先祖」のものであり、BBが英国市場でこの図案を使う権利は十分にある、とBBは主張した。However, the judge said that the complex series of transactions by which Peal & Co.'s goodwill in the sign was said to have been transmitted to Brooks Brothers was ‘somewhat murky’. Any right that Brooks Brothers might have had to use the sign in the UK had been ‘abandoned’ in 1964, he ruled. Alternatively, any such right had been lost during the 48-year gap between the collapse of Peal & Co. and 2005, when Brooks Brothers launched fox and boot-branded merchandise in the UK.
しかし、BBがこの図案を英国で使うという全ての権利は1964年に「放棄された」、あるいは、BBは英国で48年間何もしなかったので権利を失ったという判決を下した。The judge concluded: "Foster & Son succeeds in the passing off claim. The use by Brooks Brothers of the fox and boot device on products sold from its stores in the United Kingdom, or through its website to customers in the United Kingdom, amounts to passing off." Nothing in the judge's ruling prevents Brooks Brothers from making use of the fox and boot logo on its products outside the UK market.
本判決はBBが英国外でこの図案を使うことを止めてはいない。
判決文W.S. Foster & Son Ltd v Brooks Brothers UK Ltd [2013] EWPCC 18 (21 March 2013)
W.S. FOSTER & SON LIMITED （原告）
BROOKS BROTHERS UK LIMITED （被告）History of the fox and boot device
- Some background on the history of the fox and boot device is necessary before considering the pleaded cause of action in this case. Most of it comes from the evidence of Mr Terry Moore, who gave evidence for the Claimant, and Mr Raymond Jones, who gave evidence for the Defendant. Both were able to speak of events (though from different perspectives) from about 1950. ‘Fox and Boot’の歴史に関して。原告側証人はテリー・ムーア、被告側証人はレイモンド・ジョーンズ。二人とも1950年代から関わっていた人。
- The device was originally conceived and used by a shoe maker called Bartley & Son, probably dating back to the 19th century. In 1952, when the last Mr Bartley chose to retire, the business and equipment of his firm was acquired by a large and well-known shoe maker called Peal & Co ('Peals'). Peals were based in Oxford Street (and later Wigmore Street) but had manufacturing premises in Acton. They were bootmakers by appointment to various members of the royal family and created bespoke shoes for many notable celebrities of the last century including Winston Churchill, Lord Mountbatten and Fred Astaire. Peals had been run by successive generations of the Peal family since 1791. ‘Fox and Boot’はBartley & Sonの図案だったが、Bartley氏の引退により、1952年にPealがBartleyを買収した。
- Having acquired the business of Bartley & Son, Peals adopted the fox and boot device for its own business, branding its shoes and other goods with the device. Given the size and significance of Peals in shoe making at the time, it is clear that by 1965 the device was well-known as its trade mark. Peals seem to have used the trade mark in the following way: 買収後から1965年まで、Pealが‘Fox and Boot’を下掲のように使っていた。
- Peals made both bespoke and ready-to-wear shoes, but the bespoke trade was by far the largest part of its business. Many of its bespoke shoes were supplied to customers in the United States. From around 1930 it would appear that they supplied Brooks Brothers with ready-to-wear shoes. Though I have seen no copy of any actual agreement, it is suggested by the witnesses for the Defendant that this was an exclusive arrangement under which Brooks Brothers were the sole supplier of Peals' ready-to-wear footwear in the United States. This seems likely since it is common ground that these shoes were supplied bearing the fox and boot device, the name 'Peal & Co. Ltd' and the words 'made in England for Brooks Brothers', in the following form: Pealは注文靴と既成靴両方作っていたが、注文靴が断然多く、その多くは米国の顧客向けだった。Pealは1930年頃からBBに既成靴を供給し始めた。当時の契約書は証拠提出されていないが、BB側証人によると、BBが米国でのPealの既成靴の独占販売権を持っていたということだった。その既成靴には下掲の図案が使われていた。
- The Brooks Brothers group included a company registered in the United Kingdom called Brooks Brothers (New York) Limited. This company was based in Regent Street, London, and was responsible for sourcing manufactured goods from traditional makers in Europe. Mr Raymond Jones worked for that company from 1951 and was responsible in particular for the Peals account. BB側証人は1951年からBrooks Brothers (New York) Limitedで働いており、Pealを担当していた。
- In the early 1950s Peals started to run into difficulties. Both Mr Jones and Mr Moore put those difficulties down to the impossibility of finding good young staff prepared to learn the trade of bespoke shoemaking, which Mr Moore describes as 'unglamorous, physically hard and repetitive'. As a result, Peals started to outsource the manufacture of their ready-to-wear shoes (including the shoes shipped to Brooks Brothers) to another company called Edward Green & Co. These shoes continued to be branded with the fox and boot device and the Peal & Co. name. The shoes destined for Brooks Brothers seem to have been shipped direct to the United States by Edward Green & Co. 1950年代初頭、Pealは経営困難になり始めた。両証人によると、若手の後継者不足のためだった。その結果、Pealは既成靴をEdward Greenに外注するようになり、EGはBBに直接出荷したとされる。
- By the end of 1964, things had reached a stage where Peals simply could not carry on trading. The directors announced to the staff of the company that the business was closing down. There is no evidence of what formal steps were taken to liquidate the company, but it appears on the face of it to have been a voluntary process. Certainly, there is no indication of the appointment of a liquidator or of the taking of any steps to preserve or maximise the return from the assets of the company. Mr Moore's evidence is that the company employees emptied the contents of the Wigmore Street shop into a van and took it to the factory in Acton to be burnt. The employees were told that they were free to salvage what might be useful to them in their future employment. As a result, many of the last makers such as Mr Moore retained their lasts, their benches and knives, and their customer lists so they could continue to supply shoes to the bespoke customers of Peals. 1964年末までには、Pealは事業継続不能の状態に達した。Pealが会社を清算するにあたって、正式な手続きを踏んだ証拠が残っていない。テリーの証言によると、Pealにあるものを自由に持ち出して良いと言われたので、職人達はラスト、道具、顧客リストを持ち出し、注文靴作りを続けた。
- The only contemporary document evidencing the termination of the business of Peals is an article from the Associated Press agency dated 3 January 1965. This reads as follows: Peal廃業に関して唯一残っている当時の資料は、1965年1月3日のAP記事。
- Immediately before the date of this report, Peals had entered into an agreement of sale ('the Agreement') dated 31 December 1964 with Brooks Brothers (New York) Limited. In consideration of the sum of ￡3,000 Peal & Co. Limited ('the Vendor') agreed to sell free from all charges and encumbrances: AP記事が出る前の1964年12月31日、Pealは￡3,000でBBにPealの権利、顧客リスト、ラスト等を売ることに合意した。
- The Agreement stated in clause 3 that the purchase shall be completed on 1 January 1965 when the sum of ￡3,000 was paid, when assignments of the goodwill and the trade mark were executed and delivered in such form as the Purchaser shall reasonably require and the items set out in b and c were delivered to the order of the purchaser. 合意書には1965年1月1日に￡3,000払うと書かれていた。
- In clauses 4 and 5 the Agreement stated as follows: また、Pealは1964年12月31日でもって米国とカナダでの営業を終了し、1965年2月28日でもって英国等での営業を終了し、BB以外にPealの使用許可を出してはならない、と書かれていた。
- Technically, this is merely an agreement to assign, and there is no evidence that the actual assignment of the goodwill or the sale of the other assets were completed in accordance with clause 3. Indeed, it could be said that Mr Moore's evidence about the dissipation of the lasts and the customer lists is somewhat inconsistent with compliance with the sale of the assets in clause 1b and c. However, on the balance of probabilities, it would seem unlikely that completion did not in fact take place, given the terms of the Associated Press article. I would have expected the Peals to be keen to get their hands on the sum of ￡3,000 in all the circumstances. Ultimately Mr Alkin seemed to be prepared to accept for the purpose of this action that Brooks Brothers (New York) Limited had in fact acquired by assignment the goodwill and other rights referred to in clause 1a as of 1 January 1965. 合意書はあったものの、権利等の譲渡が実際行われたという証拠がない。合意内容は、職人達がラストと顧客リストを持ち出したというテリーの証言と矛盾する。
- As I have explained, by 1964 the manufacture of the ready-to-wear shoes which were being sold by Brooks Brothers in the United States under the trade mark comprising the words Peal & Co. and the fox and boot device had already been sub-contracted to Edward Green & Co. This meant that the demise of Peals caused no disruption to supplies as far as Brooks Brothers were concerned. So far as the public in the United States was concerned, nothing changed either. They could still buy the same shoes, bearing the same trade marks, from Brooks Brothers stores. For the record, the manufacture was taken over in 1989 by another company, Crockett & Jones, and still later other manufacturers were used. Peal廃業後もPealネームのBBの既成靴はEdward Greenが供給した。記録によると、1989年に外注先がCrockett & Jonesに変わった。
- Back in the United Kingdom, Peals' rivals in the manufacture of high quality footwear had, to use a well-known phrase of the time, 'never had it so good'. The demise of the dominant company in the field increased the demand for their shoes, and they were able to employ many of the skilled craftsmen who had previously worked for Peals. This included Mr Moore, who went to work for the Claimant, Foster & Son. Pealの競合他社は、業界最大手のPealの廃業によって需要が増えたため、Pealで働いていた職人達を雇うことができた。
'Custom Bootmaker in London Calls it Quits
London's most famous bootmakers are closing down because of trouble getting craftsmen to make their custom-made shoes. Rodney Peal, director and secretary of the 173-year-old Peal & Co. said Thursday the firm would close its custom operation Feb 27. 'The new workmen haven't got the skill of the old craftsmen and work recently has not been up to standard' said Peal, a member of the sixth generation to operate the firm…Peal said most of his 82 employees had already found work in the 10 or so custom bootmakers left in London…The firm stopped taking orders three weeks ago… 'I'm very disappointed at the closing' said Rodney. 'I thought I was in this field for life.' He said he hadn't decided what he would do now. Peal's readymade shoes, produced from the firm's lasts and special leather at factory in Northampton, will still be sold in the United States by Brooks Brothers of New York. But the custom-made shoes will be no more, and all the British sales will end.'Pealのラストと特注革を使い、ノーサンプトン作られる既成靴は、今後も米国のBBで販売されるが、英国でのPealの販売は注文靴も含めて全て終了する。This report was described in the course of argument by counsel for the Claimant as a 'press release'. This does not seem to be entirely correct – the wording of the report suggests an interview of some kind – but there is no reason to believe that the report does anything other than accurately reflect the intentions of those controlling Peals at the time, or the general manner in which those intentions were being expressed to the public in the United Kingdom.AP記事は当時のPeal経営者のインタビューに拠ってはいるものの、額面通り受け取るわけにはいかない。'a. The goodwill of the business together with the exclusive right so far as the Vendor can grant the same to use the name of Peal & Co. or any variant thereof in any part of the world and together with all the Vendor's right title and interest in and to the unregistered trade mark a copy of which is attached hereto [attached was a copy of the device used on the Brooks Brothers shoes]
b. All lists of the Vendor's customers who are either current or who might be reasonably expected to continue as customers of the Vendor
c. All lasts patterns and dies used or useful in the business of the Vendor'
'4. The Vendor shall at the close of business on 31 December 1964 cease to carry on the business so far as it relates to the United States of America and Canada and thereafter shall on or before 28 February 1965 cease to carry on the business elsewhere
5. After 1 January 1965 and 28 February 1965 respectively the Vendor will not [there then appears to be some text missing in the exhibit] corporation in manufacturing or selling boots shoes or leather goods of any kind and will not thereafter solicit orders or seek to obtain business or permit its name or the said trademark to be used for any such purpose by any person firm or corporation except that until 28 February 1965 it may carry on its business in the United Kingdom to the extent and in a manner that shall ensure the most profitable termination of its business in the United Kingdom.'
- ゴム引き加工
Peal & Co. Original Waterproof Boot Makers to the Royal Family
Peal ： テレビン油で溶かしたゴムをブラシで布や革に塗るという特許
Macintosh ： 安価なナフサで溶かしたゴムを布2枚で挟むという特許1791 （英） S. Peal ： 防水布の特許申請
1823 （英） C. Macintosh ： ゴムをナフサに溶解させて布に塗布する特許を取得し，防水布を製造
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